2023 Sentio Beechworth Chardonnay
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Chris Catlow is considered one of the best Chardonnay minds in the country, and this release shows exactly why. As a Beechworth local, he knows the region’s distinct geology better than almost anyone, sourcing the fruit for this wine from two established vineyards planted in the 1990s on classic Ordovician soils - a mix of mudstone, shale, and granite.
The winemaking here is all about building texture without losing the site's energy. The fruit was handpicked and basket-pressed before fermenting on lees in a combination of large-format foudre and smaller barriques (with just a touch of new oak). The wine was left unfined and unfiltered to keep every bit of character intact.
It feels full-bodied but incredibly "bouncy" and fresh. It is driven by bright acidity and a core of grapefruit and grilled peach, but there is a load of savoury notes adding complexity around the edges. It has a significant textural grip, derived from the lees contact rather than heavy oak, making it a complex, powerful and utterly compelling drink.
94 points
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